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Recent legislation in France requires models to provide a doctor’s note in order to work. The law in France prohibits designers and agents from employing models with a BMI of under 18.
The fashion industry’s standard for models can be unrealistic and unhealthy. Most modeling agencies will not list weight or measurement requirements on their websites, except relatively bigger agencies like Ford Models that post height requirements. Many agents and casting directors follow guidelines for size requirements loosely, leaving room for models of various sizes to work. Despite the leniency by some, there are agencies and forums that discuss strict guidelines within the modeling industry. Standards for types of modeling outside of the runway vary.
Generally, runway modeling is the only arena that has strict guidelines where the standard is 5’8” or taller (more often 5’10” or higher) with hourglass measurements (usually 32”-34” bust, 24-26” waist, 34-36” hip).
The reason for these guidelines is that for runway shows, designers will have a set number of articles of clothes for the show and need women that are the same size to fit the clothing for the runway. Right now the industry standard for modeling is around a size 0 – 4 with women between the heights of 5’8” to 6’0.”
If a woman is tall but does not have a naturally thin body, trying to meet the runway standards can be difficult and can require an unhealthy amount of dieting. Furthermore, if a person changes their habitual eating habits for their career, this could lead to harmful behaviors and habits in the long run that may lead to eating disorders.
A study conducted in 2008 reported that the incidence of eating disorders among a group of female models by comparison to a group of women who were not models was greater. The study did not conclude if this difference in incidence of eating disorders was due to the industry itself or something else.
Regulating the modeling industry is a step towards ensuring the health and safety of women and men that are involved in the industry. Many women aspire to look like the images in magazines and even aspire to be models because of our idealization of the tall and thin woman. Putting regulations in place so that the industry is hiring women that fit into a standard size (example: 0, 2 or 4), but are healthy at the same time, will maintain the standards of the industry and simultaneously promote a healthy lifestyle among models and in the media.
The only problem with the legislation in France is the mandated BMI of 18 or above. It is possible for someone to have a BMI below 18 and still be healthy. There are people with small frames that can healthily be at a BMI of between 17 and 18. In order to effectively regulate the modeling industry the “doctor’s note” should have subjective information on it. If a woman is demonstrating signs and symptoms of an eating disorder, this should bar her from working and seeking medical attention instead.
Regulating BMI alone may cause women who are naturally thin to overeat in order to meet the BMI guidelines. The regulations are a step in the right direction but need to be tailored in order to be effective.
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